What guests say

We took the Zenana with two children for eleven nights. The kitchen, the private stair and the fact that nobody minded the noise made it work. They even found a cricket bat.

The staff let us alone, which is rarer and harder than fussing. And the food at Rasoi is the food I have been trying to find in Uttar Pradesh for fifteen years — no buffet, no ghee-drowned imitation, just what Padma's family eats.

I booked the Pavilion for one night as an indulgence and moved the rest of the trip to keep it for four. You wake up with the fort in the doorway. There is nothing else to say about it.

We have stayed in the grand hotels of this state and this is not one of them, which is exactly the point. Twenty-two rooms, one courtyard, and a manager who knew by the second morning that I take my chai without sugar.